Follow the simple steps below and consult M&S True Value for additional advice.

Insulating Pipes
Thawing/Repairing Frozen Pipes

Insulating Pipes
Adding insulation around accessible water pipes will save you energy, decrease your heating bills, prevent pipes from freezing during the winter months and reduce condensation and water damage.

Step 1. Locate Problem Areas
Look for water pipes that pass through unconditioned spaces prone to cold air, such as crawl spaces, garages, and attics. Check the pipe leading directly from the hot-water heater.

Step 2. Measure the Pipe
Before you insulate, measure the outside diameter and length of each section of pipe. Don't ignore hot-water lines, which freeze slower than cold-water lines but are more likely to burst. Total the lengths for each size, adding about 10% more for waste.

Helpful Tip:

• Sometimes it's hard to eyeball the diameter of a pipe by simply holding a rule up to it. Take two short boards and place them across each side of the pipe. Adjust the boards until they look parallel to each other; and measure the gap between them near the pipe. You could also measure the circumference with a cloth tape measure and divide it by 3.14 to determine the diameter.

Step 3. Select the Insulation
You can purchase various types of pipe insulation kits at your local True Value store. Make sure whatever kit you choose includes adhesive tape or contact cement for sealing. The most widely available pipe insulation is tubular foam slit lengthwise to slip over existing pipes. Tubes without slits (designed for installation over new piping) can easily be slit with a sharp utility knife.

Step 4. Insulate Straight Sections and Seal
Open the pipe insulation along the slit, press it onto the pipe, and seal it with an adhesive tape or contact cement to prevent summertime condensation.

Helpful Tip:

• When using adhesive to bond seams, don't insulate pipes while they are hot, and wait 36 hours before circulating hot water.

Step 5. Make Cuts if Needed
Cutting insulation is sometimes necessary. For example, when you are covering areas where pipes meet you'll need to cut. For best results, use a miter box and either a serrated knife or a hacksaw. Use a single-edge razor blade for detail cutting. After making the appropriate cuts and confirming a good fit, use adhesive tape to seal the joint.

Step 6. Insulate Valves and Seal
After insulating the straight sections of the pipe, you will need to protect the valves. Preformed valve covers are the easiest and most effective approach. Simply fit the two halves over the valves and seal the edges with adhesive tape. For hard-to-cover valves, you can use strips of foam or fiberglass designed to wrap around pipes or fittings.

To provide maximum protection for pipes that are very vulnerable to freezing, electrical pipe heating cable is a great addition to foam insulation. Prior to adding foam insulation, the cable is simply attached to the pipe, either straight along or wrapped around, and connected to the power supply.

Safety Alert!

• If using electrical pipe heating cable, make sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for safe and proper installation.

Helpful Tips:

• Double up. In particularly vulnerable sections of pipe use two insulating tubes; the first to fit the pipe diameter and the second to fit the outside diameter of the wrapped pipe
• For greater prevention against frozen pipes try the following:
  • Do not set the thermostat below 60 degrees.
  • Leave under-sink cabinet doors open at night or on very cold, windy days.
  • Keep a heat lamp in a relatively confined space, but exercise caution.
  • Disconnect outside hoses and lawn sprinklers during the winter months, and be sure to add outdoor faucet protectors to prevent faucets from freezing.

If you discover that a pipe has frozen, leave the sink valve open a little to provide relief from the excessive pressure. Even if you didn't get a chance to insulate before the first frozen days of winter, there are measures you can take to repair and/or thaw pipes.

Step 1. Locate Damage
First determine the extent of the damage. Open the faucet at the end of the pipe and close the valve that runs into it. Then check for holes, cracks or breaks. If you find the pipe has been compromised, don't panic, just follow these guidelines.

Step 2. Repair the Pipe
A pinhole can be repaired just by wrapping with electrical or duct tape. Cover a hairline crack with a pipe clamp. For a larger crack you'll need to replace that section of pipe.

Step 3. Thaw the Pipe
If you've been able to repair the pipe without replacing it, thaw it by applying heat to the frozen section. Never use a torch. Instead use a hairdryer or heat gun on a low setting. You can also place a heat lamp or small electric heater near the pipe, wrap the pipe in heat tape or an electric blanket, or even wrap towels around the pipe and pour hot water over them.

Helpful Tip:

• When thawing a pipe that may have burst, look for a shut-off valve to that section of pipe or, if necessary, shut off the main water supply to prevent flooding as it thaws.

Safety Alert!

• When using heat from a hairdryer, heat gun, heat lamp or electric heater, please be aware of wet floors and the potential danger of electric shock. Check the area. If you find potentially dangerous electrocution hazards or extensive damage to pipes, you may want to call a plumber for assistance.

Step 4.
Insulate your pipes to prevent reoccurrence next winter.